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Basic Guide To Maintaining Wristwatch

The National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, Inc.


The Resurgence of the Mechanical Watch

 

Not too long ago, the mechanical watch was almost dead. When the quartz watch was introduced in the 1970s, everyone though that this had to be the death knell for the mechanical watch. After all, the quartz watch was cheaper and more accurate, the latest cutting edge technology.

Panic gripped the mechanical watch industry in Switzerland. Companies let their employees go, closed their doors and went home. Mechanical movements were packed away, put into storage and forgotten about.

You can't really blame the watch industry for panicking. Logic dictates that there's no way that people will pay more money for a watch that is less accurate. After all, no one in the music industry has gone back to eight track tapes now that CDs are the standard. Watch brands, industry executives and watchmakers were applying logic to the way people buy watches. But that's the last thing you want to do - look at watches from a logical perspective. Watches are different from just about any product in the marketplace. They are one of the few things that you wear on your body, in close contact with your skin. Watches are so ... personal. For men, especially, watches are just about the only things they can wear to express their style, panache and personality. Watches are cool because they can be subtle and bold, understated and flashy, elegant and casual, all at the same time. Add to this that unless people know about watches, people have no idea what they cost or how interesting they are. Forget the flashy gold conversation piece, today's hot watch is a complicated mechanical watch by a brand known to the connoisseur, but not widely known by the general public. You could be wearing the latest complicated watch at the pool, wearing only your swim suit, and instantly those in the know, know.


The Magic of a Mechanical Watch


There is something special about a mechanical watch on your wrist. A quartz watch is just a circuit board with a battery, a gadget that tells time, while a mechanical watch is something that has to be created, crafted and has had life breathed into it by a skilled watchmaker. Mechanical watches cannot be made on an assembly line; they have to, at one point or another, regardless of how much they cost, be attended to by a watchmaker. Once the watch is purchased it is kept alive by it's owner, wearing and winding it every day.


Historical Technology


There's no getting around it - mechanical watches are a dated, old-style technology. Most of the mechanical watches sold today are based on designs that are hundreds of years old. Many watches use a hairspring design that was invented by Abraham Louis Breguet in 1795, for example. Today's manufacturing methods are quite different, however. Computers make possible movements and features never contemplated even 20 years ago. Precision and reliability are better than ever because of the new materials and processes.


Entry-Level Mechanicals


Even though the popularity of mechanical watches is at an all-time high and the market is still growing by leaps and bounds, most people still wear a quartz watch and don't know anything about mechanical watches. To try to make mechanical watches more accessible to the quartz watch customer, more and more companies are developing and offering lower cost ($300 - $1,000), entry price point mechanicals. The thinking is that these customers want a higher quality, something with more craftsmanship, and the new crop of entry-level mechanical timepieces fills that bill.

Most of these customers don't want to spend a lot of money on something that they are not really sure about. That's why the under $1,000 price point is important - it's a way for people to see if they like the watches without spending a hugh amount of money. With first time mechanical watch buyers, there are some concerns and worries that have to be overcome. That's where retail sales people come in - they have to be passionate enough about mechanical watches to educate and entice a customer into the world of mechanical timepieces, giving the customer enough information and making them feel comfortable enough to make the right decision.

Those of you who own mechanical watches know that once people get hooked on them they'll never leave, and they will most probably graduate into more complicated watches. Also, there is a move toward quality products across the board. People like to buy products from companies with a history and a story. Quality watches have both.

There are a number of companies who make entry-level mechanical watches and the number seems to be growing every month as watch companies introduce mechanical watch prices at lower price points. Companies like Hamilton, Swiss Army, Maurice Lacroix, Chase-Durer, Tutima, Fortis, Longines, Oris and others are offering entry-level mechanicals that provide quality, while still offering higher price mechanicals in the rest of their line.

It's important to remember that even though you can buy a high quality mechanical watch for under $1,000, that doesn't mean that the watch that sells for $750 is the same quality as the one that sells for $5,000 or more. An entry level price point mechanical watch is like buying an entry level car - the options, special treatments and fine points people readily pay extra for just aren't there. There is a level of sophistication present in higher-priced watches, the movement is more refined, the finish finer, the materials used are different and higher grade, there are complications present, the attention to detail is greater, and much more. These entry-price-point mechanical watches are meant to give a person entry into the mechanical lifestyle, and from there they can go in whatever direction the want. These low-priced mechanicals are about opening the door, giving people a glimpse inside the wonderful world of mechanical watches. Watches should be a more important part of everyone's wardrobe. A CEO or president shouldn't be wearing a $50 watch and one way to do that is to instill in everyone an appreciation of mechanical watches. These entry-level mechanicals are the first step in that direction.


Complicated Watches


Once you are brought into the fold of mechanical watches, complications are the next step. A complication is defined as anything above and beyond the simple telling of time, mainly because everything, including a small or a day/date display, is something that has to be added to or integrated into a basic mechanical movement.

Some of the more popular complications on the market today are: chronographs, moon-phases, dual timezones, minute repeaters, annual calendars, perpetual calendars and tourbillons.

Some of these mechanical watches have more parts than a car, with some smaller than a human hair.

The Vacheron Constantin Tour de I'lle has 834 parts and took more than ten years to create.


How To Get Started


It's easy to get started in mechanical watches. The first step is to read as much about watches as you can, and this website is a great place to start.

Once you've identified a couple of different brands and watches you are interested in, go visit an authorized retailer. Pictures of watches, though beautiful, don't really do the timepiece justice. It's important to put them on your wrist and see how you feel about the watches.

If you don't fall in love with the watch, don't buy it. You'll quickly have buyers remorse. With the variety and sheer volume of mechanical watches on the market today, you can rest assured that you will find a watch to fall in love with, so keep looking. You don't have to spend a fortune to get started wearing a mechanical watch - set aside anywhere from $300 to $1,000 and you can get a good quality, good looking mechanical and you'll be on your way.


The Future of Mechanical Watches


The future of mechanical watches looks brighter than ever, even brighter than before the quartz revolution hit. More and more companies are making mechanical watches, and as more customers get hooked on the mechanicals, the demand will continue to grow. The best watch manufacturers are committed to continuing to strive for perfection. Within the framework of the mechanical movement, they are working on new ways of doing things, new movement designs that produce greater accuracy,longer reliability and less need for adjustment. In addition, many more companies are making the commitment of designing and manufacturing their own movements. In the past, it was enough for companies to buy movements from movement manufacturers, and many still do, but discerning customers are asking where the movements come from and those that want truly unique watches no longer want off-the-shelf movements. They want to buy movements that are special and are only used in the watches from one brand.

Mechanical watches are here to stay. They are magic on the wrist, living machines that are that are amazing in their complexity and the number of moving parts. Take for example the Zenith El Primero movement, one of the most famous in the industry. This movement beats 36,000 times an hour, which is 864,000 times a day, 25,920,000 times a month, 311,040,000 times a year. The watch is truly a marvel of miniature engineering and a phenomenal accomplishment of the human race. Available now to be placed on your wrist. What are you waiting for?

 

 

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