Not
too long ago, the mechanical
watch was almost dead. When the quartz
watch was introduced in the 1970s, everyone though
that this had to be the death knell for the mechanical
watch. After all, the quartz
watch was cheaper and more accurate, the latest cutting
edge technology.
Panic
gripped the mechanical watch industry in Switzerland. Companies
let their employees go, closed their doors and went home. Mechanical
movements were packed away, put into storage and forgotten about.
You can't really blame the watch industry for panicking. Logic dictates
that there's no way that people will pay more money for a watch
that is less accurate. After all, no one in the music industry has
gone back to eight track tapes now that CDs are the standard. Watch
brands, industry executives and watchmakers were
applying logic to the way people buy watches. But that's
the last thing you want to do - look at watches from a logical perspective.
Watches are different from just about any product in the marketplace.
They are one of the few things that you wear on your body, in close
contact with your skin. Watches are so ... personal. For
men, especially, watches are just about the only things they
can wear to express their style, panache and personality. Watches
are cool because they can be subtle and bold, understated and flashy,
elegant and casual, all at the same time. Add to this that unless
people know about watches, people have no idea what they cost or
how interesting they are. Forget the flashy gold conversation piece,
today's hot watch is a complicated mechanical watch by a
brand known to the connoisseur, but not widely known by the general
public. You could be wearing the latest complicated watch at the
pool, wearing only your swim suit, and instantly those in the know,
know.
The Magic of a Mechanical Watch
There is something special about a mechanical watch on your
wrist. A quartz watch
is just a circuit board with a battery, a gadget that tells time,
while a mechanical watch is something that has to be created, crafted
and has had life breathed into it by a skilled watchmaker. Mechanical
watches cannot be made on an assembly line; they have to,
at one point or another, regardless of how much they cost, be attended
to by a watchmaker. Once the watch is purchased it is kept
alive by it's owner, wearing and winding it every day.
Historical Technology
There's no getting around it - mechanical
watches are a dated, old-style technology. Most of the mechanical
watches sold today are based on designs that are hundreds of
years old. Many watches use a hairspring design that was invented
by Abraham Louis Breguet in 1795, for example. Today's manufacturing
methods are quite different, however. Computers make possible movements
and features never contemplated even 20 years ago. Precision and
reliability are better than ever because of the new materials and
processes.
Entry-Level Mechanicals
Even though the popularity of mechanical
watches is at an all-time high and the market is still growing
by leaps and bounds, most people still wear a quartz
watch and don't know anything about mechanical watches.
To try to make mechanical watches more accessible to the quartz
watch customer, more and more companies are developing and offering
lower cost ($300 - $1,000), entry price point mechanicals. The thinking
is that these customers want a higher quality, something with more
craftsmanship, and the new crop of entry-level mechanical timepieces
fills that bill.
Most
of these customers don't want to spend a lot of money on something
that they are not really sure about. That's why the under $1,000
price point is important - it's a way for people to see if they
like the watches without spending a hugh amount of money. With first
time mechanical watch
buyers, there are some concerns and worries that have to be overcome.
That's where retail sales people come in - they have to be passionate
enough about mechanical watches to educate and entice a customer
into the world of mechanical timepieces, giving the customer enough
information and making them feel comfortable enough to make the
right decision.
Those of you who own mechanical
watches know that once people get hooked on them they'll
never leave, and they will most probably graduate into more complicated
watches. Also, there is a move toward quality products across the
board. People like to buy products from companies with a history
and a story. Quality watches have both.
There are a number of companies who make entry-level mechanical
watches and the number seems to be growing every month as watch
companies introduce mechanical watch prices at lower price points.
Companies like Hamilton,
Swiss Army, Maurice Lacroix, Chase-Durer, Tutima,
Fortis, Longines,
Oris and others are offering entry-level mechanicals that
provide quality, while still offering higher price mechanicals in
the rest of their line.
It's important to remember that even though you can buy a high quality
mechanical watch
for under $1,000, that doesn't mean that the watch that sells for
$750 is the same quality as the one that sells for $5,000 or more.
An entry level price point mechanical watch is like buying an entry
level car - the options, special treatments and fine points people
readily pay extra for just aren't there. There is a level of sophistication
present in higher-priced watches, the movement is more refined,
the finish finer, the materials used are different and higher grade,
there are complications present, the attention to detail is greater,
and much more. These entry-price-point mechanical watches are meant
to give a person entry into the mechanical lifestyle, and from there
they can go in whatever direction the want. These low-priced mechanicals
are about opening the door, giving people a glimpse inside the wonderful
world of mechanical watches. Watches should be a more important
part of everyone's wardrobe. A CEO or president shouldn't be wearing
a $50 watch and one way to do that is to instill in everyone an
appreciation of mechanical
watches. These entry-level mechanicals are the first step
in that direction.
Complicated Watches
Once you are brought into the fold of mechanical
watches, complications are the next step. A complication
is defined as anything above and beyond the simple telling of time,
mainly because everything, including a small or a day/date display,
is something that has to be added to or integrated into a basic
mechanical movement.
Some of the more popular complications on the market today are:
chronographs, moon-phases, dual timezones, minute repeaters,
annual calendars, perpetual calendars and tourbillons.
Some of these mechanical watches have more parts than a car, with
some smaller than a human hair.
The Vacheron
Constantin Tour de I'lle has 834 parts and took more
than ten years to create.
How To Get Started
It's easy to get started in mechanical
watches. The first step is to read as much about watches
as you can, and this website is a great place to start.
Once you've identified a couple of different brands and watches
you are interested in, go visit an authorized retailer. Pictures
of watches, though beautiful, don't really do the timepiece justice.
It's important to put them on your wrist and see how you feel about
the watches.
If you don't fall in love with the watch, don't buy it. You'll quickly
have buyers remorse. With the variety and sheer volume of mechanical
watches on the market today, you can rest assured that you will
find a watch to fall in love with, so keep looking. You don't have
to spend a fortune to get started wearing a mechanical
watch - set aside anywhere from $300 to $1,000 and you can
get a good quality, good looking mechanical and you'll be on your
way.
The Future of Mechanical Watches
The future of mechanical
watches looks brighter than ever, even brighter than before
the quartz revolution hit. More and more companies are making mechanical
watches, and as more customers get hooked on the mechanicals,
the demand will continue to grow. The best watch manufacturers are
committed to continuing to strive for perfection. Within the framework
of the mechanical movement, they are working on new ways of doing
things, new movement designs that produce greater accuracy,longer
reliability and less need for adjustment. In addition, many more
companies are making the commitment of designing and manufacturing
their own movements. In the past, it was enough for companies to
buy movements from movement manufacturers, and many still do, but
discerning customers are asking where the movements come from and
those that want truly unique watches no longer want off-the-shelf
movements. They want to buy movements that are special and are only
used in the watches from one brand.
Mechanical watches are
here to stay. They are magic on the wrist, living machines that
are that are amazing in their complexity and the number of moving
parts. Take for example the Zenith El Primero movement, one of the
most famous in the industry. This movement beats 36,000 times an
hour, which is 864,000 times a day, 25,920,000 times a month, 311,040,000
times a year. The watch is truly a marvel of miniature engineering
and a phenomenal accomplishment of the human race. Available now
to be placed on your wrist. What are you waiting for?