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Watch
Care & Handling

Basic Guide To Maintaining Wristwatch

The National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, Inc.

 

 


Watch
Complications Simplified


 

In our lives, we are constantly trying to avoid complications. In the horological world, however, complications make watches, and life, more interesting

What Is a Complication?
A complication is anything more than the standard time display - hour, minute and second hands. So, to be specific, even the addition of a date display is considered a complication.

What Are The Most Popular Complications?
The most popular complications, at the lower end of the spectrum, are the chronograph, the day/date display (annual calendar), moon phase and the dual time/GMT complication. On the higher end, the perpetual calendar, minute repeater, tourbillon and grand complication are the most popular complications.

What Is The Most Popular Complications?
The tourbillon is considered the height of watchmaking. Designed to counter the effects of gravity, the tourbillon has been around since 1798. Comprised of an outstanding number of parts (the classic Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges has 235 parts), it's a true feat of watchmaking skill to make a reliable tourbillon. Any striking watch is also a challenge to manufacture, the most complicated being the Grande Sonnerie, which chimes hours, quarter hours and minutes, while the Minute Repeater does the above on demand.

The Trend In Movements
In the past, many companies used movements manufactured by ETA, a company owned by the Swatch Group that specializes in very precise movements. Today, however, movements are so hard to get that many watch brands are moving to other companies or developing their own in-house movements to control the supply of movements themselves, and also to stand apart from the host of companies that use ETA movements.

The Future Of Complications
Watches will continue to get more complicated on the inside, while being more user-friendly on the outside. What good is a super complicated watch if you can't figure out how to use it? The watch should do the heavy lifting for you, the wearer. All you should need to do is read it to get the various indications.



The Top Four Complications Simplified

Perpetual Calendar
A calendar that automatically accounts for the different number of days in months and for leap years. With a few rare exceptions, it has to be adjusted for secular years that are not leap years, the next being 2100 and 2200.

Repeater
A watch that sounds the hours by means of a mechanism operated by a push-piece or slide. There are various types of repeaters: Quarter-Repeater, sounding the hours and the quarters; Five-Minute Repeater, striking the hours, quarters and minutes on demand; Grande Sonnerie (Grand Strike), sounding the hours and quarters automatically and repeating when a push-piece is pressed down; Chiming Repeater, in which the quarters are struck on three or four gongs of different pitch.

Grande Complication
There is no hard and fast rule for what a Grande Complication is. Common usage is that to qualify as a Grande Complication, a watch has to have at least three high complications. One of the most popular combinations is a chronograph, perpetual calendar and minute repeater.

Tourbillon
Device invented to eliminate errors of rate in vertical positions. It consists of a mobile carriage or cage carrying all the parts of the escapement, with the balance in the center. The cage generally makes one revolution per minute.

 

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