Watchbands / Watchstraps
Anatomy
of a Watch Strap
All
the details and options you never knew existed
What's
the difference between Band, Strap and Bracelet?
The terms for the various types of watch bands are frequently confused
and misused--often leading to miscommunication, misordering and missatisfaction.
To set you on the right path for asking correctly for what you want,
here are the definitions of each:
•
Band and Watchband are vague, generic terms used to refer to the band
that holds a watch on your wrist. The preferred terms are Bracelet
or Strap, which clearly describe the two major types.
• A Bracelet is a metal link watch band. Similar to a jewelry
bracelet, may have a clasp to open it.
• A Strap is a watch band made of cloth, rubber, leather or other
non-metal material.
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Which
is more dressy, a strap or a bracelet?
In
general, a shiny black strap of a material like crocodile, alligator
or lizard is considered the single dressiest strap option for a man.
Elegant metal bracelets are usually the second best choice for men,
while either a bracelet of strap are usually equally appropriate for
ladies dress watches.
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My
watch is on a metal bracelet now, can I change it to a strap?
That depends on the
specific model you have. The majority of modern and vintage watches
have detachable bracelets which can be replaced with a standard watch
strap of the correct width.
 |
 |
 |
| Bracelet
watches usually have traditional strap fittings hidden under the
bracelet end pieces. Those that do can be easily swapped to any
standard type strap. |
Some
watches have completely integrated bracelets, which cannot be replaced
with a strap. Integrated bracelets are more common on ladies watches,
but do occur on some mens models. |
A
very small number of watches require a unique, custom fit strap
which can only be bought from the original watch manufacturer or
certain strap makers who have specifically licensed the rights to
make compatible straps. |
Examples
of watches that CAN be easily switched to a strap:
1. Simple bracelet.
2. Custom fit bracelet, but on standard lug connections.
Examples of watches that may require special
or custom straps:
1. Non-standard, brand or model-specific strap/bracelet connection.
Requires the manufacturer to provide a custom strap that fits this case.
If not, some specialty strap makers may be able to create a custom strap
for the watch.
2. Fixed pin or peg connection. These connections can be accomodated--but
require 'open-ended' straps. Once attached, this type of strap is not
easily removed without damaging the strap. Such straps are commonly
made and only require you to purchase the correct width. Though they
may not be an in-stock item in average watch retailers.
Examples
of watches that can NOT be switched to a strap:
1. Integrated bracelet--the bracelet and the watch case are either
a single piece or an integrated design that does not include a standard
strap connection. Sometimes a matching model with an adapted case design
was offered for those who wanted a version of the same watch, but on
a strap.
2. Loop end watch cases are common with the extremely dainty style
of some vintage ladies watches. These were designed to connect to loop
bracelets. There are alternative bracelets to fit such watches, but
not leather straps.
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Do
I have to buy a strap of the same brand as my watch?
In most cases, no.
If your watch can take a standard strap, then you can buy a strap of
any decent brand. As long as it is of the correct width and sufficiently
sturdy, you should be fine.
Only a limited number of uniquely styled watches require specialized,
non-standard straps only available from the manufacturer of that specific
watch.
But there are two particular advantage of buying a strap of the same
brand. One is that the buckle on the strap will likely have the logo
of the watch company on it. The other is that is keeps your watch more
authentic, having the strap of the same brand. Both of these advantages
are nice small touches that some people enjoy, while others see no need
to go to additional effort or expense for them.
Buying
straps from the watch manufacturer can be difficult. Only a few of the
fine watchmakers encourage their authorized dealers to stock a range
of the manufacturer's straps in their stores. Other watchmakers require
you to order them--often sight unseen--from a customer service center,
or through an authorized dealer that may not even have samples or catalog
photos to show you.
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What
kinds of straps are available?
Straps can be made
of any of a variety of materials. The most common are:
• Leather, other animal hides and simulated hides
• Cloth, fabric, and nylon
• Rubber or plastic
And they come in many different configurations:
• Hide-faced, padded. A favorite for larger men's watches.
• Hide-faced, flat. Typically used on slim dress watches.
• Flat fabric. A simple but practical style. Favored by the military.
• Moulded. Shaped straps of rubber or plastic.
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What
kinds of buckles and clasps are available?
Tang-type buckle: By far the most common. Operates just like most men's
belts, except does not have to be 'let out' near as often.
Deployant clasp, inside style: On this style, the 'tail' of the watch
strap goes on the inside of the clasp. While this style has a more elegant
look, it does not always work with just any standard strap. Often, a custom
strap is needed to prevent the tang-slot and keeper loop features of the
strap from showing.
Deployant clasp, outside style: With this second type, the tail of the
strap goes on the outside--the same way it does with a standard tang-type
buckle. This is the more common type and several versions are available
that can fit on to most existing leather watch straps.
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What
do I need to know to buy a strap?
If your watch does take a standard strap, then all you really need to
know is the width between the 'lugs' of the watch where the strap attaches.
The Clasp or Buckle:
• Standard tang-buckle strap: much like a traditional belt.
• Deployant Clasp: a folding, locking metal clasp that operates similarly
to the clasps on metal watch bracelets.
The Buckle-End of the Strap:
• Standard tang-buckle strap. Much like a traditional belt.
• Deployant-specific. Special straps designed for particular types
of deployant clasps. These are noticably longer on one side and lack the
'keeper' loop and the hole for the 'tongue' of a tang-type buckle. Note
that not all deployant clasps require special straps--many are made to
work with standard tang-buckle type straps.
The width of the strap at the buckle end is seldom of concern to the strap
buyer unless you are looking to use a different clasp than the one that
comes with the strap. Most straps taper so that they are somewhat narrower
at the buckle-end. Mens watch straps of 20 or 18mm at the watch-end are
commonly 16mm at the buckle end. Some 20mm straps and most 22mm straps
are 18mm at the buckle end. Ladies straps tend to taper 4-6mm less than
the watch-end.
The Watch-End
of the Strap:
Standard:
• Contour fit end straps offer greater elegance. Their contoured
ends that fit flush against the contours of the watch case. Because the
exact distance from the spring pins to the watch case and the specific
curve of the case vary across watch designs, such straps are often fairly
unique to a specific watch model.
Non-Standard:
• Have an integrated bracelet and lack the connections for a conventional
strap. Note that some watches that look like the bracelet is integrated
actually can have it removed and a standard strap attached.
• Use a specially designed strap that is unique to the brand or model.
While these look very elegant and stylish, they have the extreme disadvantage
of forcing you to buy all your replacement straps at premium prices from
the watch manufacturer.
• Vintage watches that do not use standard removable spring pins.
Width at the end that attaches to the watch is typically 18mm for standard
men's dress watches. Mens sports-style watches may be 20mm or in a few
rarer cases 22mm. Ladies watches typically range from 9mm to 14mm. Even
sizes are most common, but you may encounter odd sizes on ladies or vintage
mens watches.
The Watch:
• The parts of the watch that stick out to hold the detachable strap
or bracelet are called the 'lugs.'
• The watch itself may add around 1.5 inches (4 mm) to the circumference
when attached to the strap. So when measuring for a strap, always add
the length of your watch (measured from the top spring pin to the bottom
one) when comparing the strap size to the circumference of your wrist.
The Length of the Strap:
• Length often listed merely as Regular, Short or Long. A mens Regular
length strap usually accomodates wearers with 6.5 to 8" wrists.
• Don't forget to add the size of the watch to the size of the strap
when comparing to the circumference of your wrist.
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