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The
Watch Index (2007)
The following
is a rating of a select group of watches as buy, hold or sell
based on conversations with collectors, dealers, watch clubs
and trade publications, as well as past performance at auction.
Some have been discontinued and are available only on the
secondary market. Auction prices are the high gavel prices
over the past decade at Antiquorum and Christie's; only some
specific models within a line will fetch that much. The condition
of the watches and their documentation also factor in. Experts
suggest beginning collectors seek advice from a collector
or appraiser before buying.
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BUY
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Watch
or Line
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Retail
Price Range
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Auction
High
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Comment
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IWC
II Destriero
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$350,000-$375,000
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$326,000
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Very
expensive watches can be hard to sell given limited demand,
but experts think this could be a good long-term value if
snapped up at discount in a secondary market. With 750 moving
parts, it's one of the most complicated watches in the world.
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F.P.
Journe
Chronometre a
Resonance
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$60,000-$101,000
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$63,000
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Watchmaker
Francois-Paul Journe is known for designing a pocket watch
with a tourbillon - a complicated device that counteracts
the effects of gravity on a watch's accuracy - at the age
of twenty.
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Ulysse
Nardin
Freak
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$42,000-$45,000
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$47,000
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Watchmaker
Ludwig Oechslin is known for his unusual designs; the Freak
has no hands; instead, the entire mechanism rotates each hour
and an arrow points to the markings on the dial.
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Audemars
Piguet
Royal Oak
City of Sails
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$15,000-$42,000
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$26,000
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The
Swiss maker is known for high-profile limited-edition lines.
This watch is part of the Alinghi line in honor of the America's
cup winning team that bears its logo. Only 1,500 were made.
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Vacheron
Constantin
Tin Mercator
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$37,500
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$53,000
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Vacheron
has a reputation for highly complicated watches like the Tour
de I'lle. This model has a Chinese Zodiac dial, popular in
Asian markets.
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Martin
Braun Eos
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$9,550-$36,000
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$3,585
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Martin
Braun unveiled his watches at the Basel fair in 2000, though
experts say his name isn't yet well known. The Eos line indicates
the sunrise and sunset time with a mechanism customized for
the wearers geographic locations.
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Patek
Philippe
Nautilus
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$18,000-$35,500
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$56,000
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This
line has siz models. Many can still be bought for less than
$30,000 at auction, and the company's reputationmakes it a
good place to start for collectors. The "Jumbo"
line is particularly popular.
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Breguet
Marine
Chronographe
Automatique
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$24,000-$25,000
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$25,000
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Named
for the 18th-century watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet, the
company is considered by many to make movements that are high
in quality. Collectors say they like this watch's modern,
masculine design.
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Patek
Philippe
Calatrava 5053
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$20,000
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$14,000
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Although
often overshadowed by other lines like the vintages 1463 and
2499, the Calatrava could gain in value, say experts. It's
a simple, understated watch with few "complications,"
or features that add an extra function besides time-telling.
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Nomos
Tangente Date
Power Reserve
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$2,700
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N/A
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Experts
point to this watch as a good entry-level purchase from up-and-coming
German watchmaker Nomos because the low price still brings
complications like the power reserve indicator, which lets
you know when it needs to be wound. The simple, clean design
might also appeal to women.
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HOLD
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Watch
or Line
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Retail
Price Range
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Auction
High
|
Comment
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Blancpain
1735
Grande Complication
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$860,000
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$579,000
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Only
one of the 27 made so far has come up at auction. This watch
elicits strong opinions among collectors, who argue over whether
its many complications, including a tourbillon and chronograph,
merit its high price.
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Thomas
Prescher
Triple Axis Tourbillon
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$350,000
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N/A
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Part
of a three-watch set, this watch also feature a remontoire,
which ensures consistant poweris supplied regardless of how
much it's wound. The wait list is about two years.
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Harry
Winston
Opus V
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$143,000
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$161,000
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Designed
by watchmaker Felix Baumgartner and Harry Winston for the
brand's "Rare Timepieces" line, the 50mm-wide watch
has benefitted from the popularity of large faces - a trend
that some collectors say might not last. One unique element:
rotating cubes instead of hour hands.
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Panerai
PAM 21 Radiomir
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$143,000
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$140,000
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A
limited-edition platinum version broke a world record for
the PAM 21 line at an Antiquorum auction. The watch has no
complications and experts say its large face may not stay
popular.
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Rolex
Daytona
Oyster Chronograph
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$7,900-$100,000
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$84,000
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The
more desirable versions from the 1970s (reference numbers
6263-5, 6241, 6239) are known as "Paul Newman" watches
and are considered a staple for many collectors. They have
consistently grown in value.
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Rolex
Oyster
Perpetual "Milgauss"
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$1,300-$97,000
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$163,000
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Overlooked
for decades because of its narrow use, this rare watch was
designed specifically for people working in areas of high
magnetism. Some say the price could go up for some models
due to its scarcity.
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Patek
Philippe 3970
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$91,000
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$136,000
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This
watch might have already reached its peak price, but experts
say that along with minute repeaters, the perpetual calendar
complication, which adjusts for month lengths and leap years,
is particularly desirable.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre
Reverso Tourbillon
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$83,000
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$33,000
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The
Reverso is Jaeger's flagship line and there are several models.
The Number Two, for example, features an extra face and is
reversible.
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A.
Lange & Sohne 1
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$24,000-$35,000
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$140,000
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This
watch is available in eight different cases, from platinum
to white gold. It has a power reserve, off-center displays
and an oversized date display.
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IWC
Pilot's Watch
Chrono-Automatic
Edition Antoine de
Saint Exupery
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$4,500-$18,000
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$60,000
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Named
after the author of the "Little Prince," this watch
was produced in stainless steel, rose gold, white gold and
platinum and has special protection against tampering from
magnetic fields.
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Omega
Speedmaster
Professional
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$3,000
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$11,000
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All
are nicknamed the "Moon Watch," but the most valuable
are certain well-known versions from the 1960s, one of which
was worn by Neil Armstrong on his 1969 Apollo mission. Collectors
say "premoon" versions could also rise in value.
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SELL
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Watch
or Line
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Retail
Price Range
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Auction
High
|
Comment
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Corum
Bubble
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$2,000-$50,000
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$3,500
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The
watch made its debut in 2000 and has images of playing cards
and roulette wheels on the dial. Some purists say the designs
come at the expense of an intricate interior. The company
says it expects the watch to take at least a decade to appreciate
and that it's meant to be more style-oriented.
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Chopard
Mille Miglia
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$3,000-$23,000
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$10,000
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Experts
say the lack of high-end complications - such as a minute
repeater - might make this line a poor purchase. The company
says the line is intentionally simple; the L.U.C. is its more
complicated line.
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Piaget
Polo
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$22,000
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$10,000
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Although
the brand has existed for more than a century, Piaget hasn't
had as much traction in the secondary market as its peers.
The Polo was popular in the 1980s and has recently been revived.
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Hublot
Big Bang
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$17,500
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$12,000
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At
40mm, this watch has a big dial and is emblematic of the large
watch trend. Popular in Europe, it incorporates nontraditional
materials such as Kevlar, rubber and ceramics. Some collectors
say this makes it a little ungainly.
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